Permanent waving of hair



1,640,345 Aug. 30, 1927. s BONAT ET AL PERMANENT WAVING OF HAIR Filed Jan.17, 1927 2 Sheets-Sheet l INVENTOR \SZz m/e/ Beau? and BY Ha /7 300a)- ATTORNEYS C Aug 27 s. BONAT ET AL PERMANENT WAVING OF HAIR Filed Jan.l7, 1927 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 INVENTOR m/e/ 6044/ 440 ATTORNEY5 Patented Aug. 30, 1927.

PATENT OFFICE.

SAMUEL Bonner m HARRY 1301mm, on NEW YORK, N. Y.

PERMANENT wAvING OF HAIR.

Application filed. January 17, 1927. Serial No. 161,567.

This invention relates to the permanent waving of hair and particularly to improvements in devices. which facilitate the curling operation. f

It has been the practice heretofore in the so-called permanent waving of hair to wind the hair upon a mandrel, to moisten it with suitable solutions, and thereupon to subject the hair to heat applied, for example, by an electric heating element disposed within a casing which surrounds the mandreland the hair wound thereon. I

The devices heretofore used to secure and wind the hair upon the mandrel and to apply the desired lotions thereto have been subject to certain defects, and consequently the obtaining of satisfactory results has involved a certain degree of skill and has required the services of highly trained operators. To secure the best results it is necessary tosecurely lock the hair at one end of the mandrel and to wind it evenly thereon. It is likewise necessary to apply the lotion uniformly to the hair and to employ a suitable amount of the lotion. perform their intended function successfully and neglect by the operator of the necessary precautions often result in an unsatisfactory wave and may even cause injury to the hair. It is the object of the present invention to avoid the difiiculties which have been experienced in the art as practicedheretofore and to provide simple and effective means which ensure v the successful accomplishment of the intended result.

Another object of the invention is to provide a simple and satisfactor lock adapted to secure the hair to the man rel.

I Another object of the invention is the provision of an improved winder which facilitates the proper arrangement of the hair upon the mandrel.

A still further object of the invention is th provision of an improved pad embodying a hair-treating material which when moistened will form a satisfactory lotion,

' the pad providing at the same time for the protection of the hair against excessive heat and consequent injuryu Other objects and advantages of the invention will be apparent as it is better understood by reference to the following specification and the accompanying drawing in vention are illustrated.

Failure of the devices used to drawn together the hair may be clamped bewhich the preferred embodiments of the inposition; Fig. 7 is a section on the line 7-'7 of Fig. 5.

Figs. 8 and 9 are-plan .views of still another form of the locking device in closed and open positions;

, I Fig. 10 a section on the line 1010 of Fig. 8;

Figs. 11 and 12 are plan views of another form of locking device .in closed and open positions; a

Fig. 13 is anelevation of the locking device as shown in 11 and 12;

gig. 14 is a 'plan view of the improved Fig. 15 is a section on the line 15-15 of Fig. 14; p

- Fig. 16 is an elevation showing a slightly different form of winder on the mandrel;

Fig. 17 is a section on the line 17-17 of Fig. 16; and

Fig. 18 is a sectional view illustrating the application of the pad to the mandrel with the hair wound thereon. a

In carrying out the invention we provide a mandrel of the usual type with a locking device at one end thereof. The locking device may be embodied in different forms but it comprises in general two cooperating parts forming a jaw so that when the parts are tween them and thus held securely. The parts are locked in closed position by providing a threaded end on themandrel, preferably upon a reduced extension thereof. One of the parts of the jaw is loose upon this threaded extension and the other is thread-- edly connected thereto so that by simply the heating element.

We also providean improved winder which is adapted to slide on the mandrel and to be held frictionally thereon in any desired position. The winder preferably comprises a shell made of a single piece of metal bent to the proper form andhaving a helical slot therein and a projecting finger which facilitates the threading of the hair into the slot. The winder is provided with an internal cam which is shaped to lay the hair evenly upon the mandrel as the winder is rotated. The lower end of the winder is provided preferably with a plurality of resilient extensions which grip the mandrel and hold the winder frictionally in the desired position.

A modification of the winder which can be constructed more simply includes a shell made of two separate parts which may be secured-to ether. The upper part of the winder which is provided with the slot and finger is tubular in form and slips over the shell to which it is secured by rivets. The internal cam is likewise secured withinthe shell by the same rivets. By forming the shell in two parts it is possible to prepare them by a simple stamping operation and the winder as thus produced is somewhat cheaper although quite as effective as the winder in which the shell is constructed in one piece. I

The improved pad is adapted especially for use with the devices hereinbefore described although it can be employed, of course, with any suitable mandrel and winder. It comprises preferabl 'a folded strip of textile material such as annel with an extension at one side of reduced dimensions enclosing another stri of textile material which may be also-o flannel impregnated with a suitable hair-treating material, for example, borax. the inner flannel strip is accomplished by dipping it in a saturated solution of borax and permitting it to dry, leaving the borax enmeshed in the fabric. Other suitable salts which are adapted for the treatment of hair in the permanent-waving operation can be employed. The larger portion of the pad which does not enclose the hair-treating material is preferably wrapped in a sheet of substantially impervious material such as I parchment paper and the pad is stitched.

longitudinall and transversely to hold the several parts inassembled relation.

In using the pad, after .the hair has been wound upon. the mandrel its reduced extension is dipped in a suitable solution. This may be, for example, a soapy water solution containing borax The exact proportions'of soap and borax in the solution are not important and can be varied within a wide range as is well known in the art. The reduced extension, being thus moistened, is wrapped about the hair upon the mandrel and the other portion with the surrounding The impregnation ofhead 21.

paper wrapper is wrapped about the reduced extension so'that the hair is enclosed within a wrapping, the inner layer of which contains hair-treating material while the outer layer is adapted to prevent excessive local heating of the hair. The wrapped mandrel is then inserted within a tube of any suitable material such as cardboard although we prefer to employ a bakelite tube, and the tube is introduced in a cylindrical heater extension 6, one of the arms8 being thread! ed upon the extensiori while the other arms are loose thereon. The arms 8 are connected by a pin 10 which holds them in fixed position relatively-to each other while the arm' 9 is adapted to swing toward and from the arms 8 The arms together form a jaw which when closed will firmly grip a strand of hair. By turning the mandrel 5 the threaded arm 8 is drawn toward the shoulder 11 on the mandrel and the arms are fdirr'rlily clamped to lock the hair to the man- In Figs. 5 to 7 of the drawing theparts cept that they have a generally circular form. Thus,'the-mandrel 12 has a reduced threaded extension 13 and a head'li and semi-circular parts 15 and 16 are provided, one of the parts-15 being threadedly mounted on the extension 13 while the others are loose. A pin 17 holds the parts 15 in predetermined relation but the parts 16 can turn relatively to the parts 15 and thus form a jaw into which the hair is clamped. By turning the mandrel 12 the threaded part 15 is drawn toward the shoulder 18 and the parts are firmly clamped in the desired position.

In Figs. 8 to 10 of the drawing the mandrel 19 has a threaded extension 20 and a Two V-sh'aped members 22 are mounted on the threaded extension, one of the members being threadedl-y connected thereto. An arm 23 is pivoted at 24 to the Vshaped members and is adapted to be introduced between the members 22 adjacent are substantially as previously described ex-- shaped members away from has a reduced threaded extension 26 and a head 27. An arm 28 is threadedly mounted on the reduced extension '26 and two V- 29 are pivoted at 30 to the arm. When the arm 28 is introduced between the members 29 to lock the hair to the mandrel the latter can be turned. The shoulder 31 on the mandrel then' bears against one of the members 29 and clamps the arm 28 securely thereto.

The several modifications of the look as hereinbefore described merely illustrate the variable forms which the invention may take, all of these forms embodying the principle previously described and being free from objectionable projecting set screws or like devices for holding the parts in locking position. The look as described is simple, inexpensive and effective. It permits the hair to be held securely at the end of the mandrel and facilitates the winding of the hair upon the mandrel and the subsequent operations.

The winder as illustrated in Fig. 1, of the drawing comprises a shell 32 which may be formed of any suitable metal such as brass and is provided with a helical slot 33 and a projecting finger 34 which facilitates the introduction of the'hair into the slot. A cam 35' is disposed within the shell and is secured thereto by a rivet 36. This cam has a sloping face commencing at the end -of the slot in the shell and it directs the hair as the shell is turned so that it islaid evenl upon the mandrel. It is to be understoo of course. that in winding the hair the shell is rotated and is moved at the same time lengthwise of the mandrel in a direction the lock. The shell isheld frictionallv to the mandrel bv resilient exec 37 gripping the mandrel with suflic'iei. friction to hold it normally in the desired position while permitting rotation and longitudinal movement of the winder as the winding operation progresses. The advantages of the structure as described are simplicity and ruggednessythere being no parts which can be easily broken or removed inadvertently.

In another form of the winder as illustrated in Figs. 16 and 17 the shell comprises two arts 38 which arev generally semi-cylindrical in form and ma be stamped from ordinary sheet metal.

art 39 is provided with a slot and finger as 1n the. preceding embodiment of the invention. A cam 40 is disposed within the cylindrical portion to direct the hairupon the spind e 41 which carries a suitable lock 42 at one en thereof. The several parts of the winder are secured together by rivets 43. The ends of the shell 38 are provided with resilient extensions 44 which grip the mandrel 41 and hold the winder normally in the desired position, permitting, nevertheless,

separate tubular.

closes a folded strip 47 of flannel or other suitable textile material which, as hereinbefore indicated, is impregnated with a suitable hair-treating substance such as borax by immersing it in a solution of the substanceand permitting it to dry. The body of the pad is enclosed in a sheet 48 of an impervious-material such as archment paper and the several parts are held in assembled relation by transverse and longitudinal stitching 49 and 50.

In applying the invention a strand of hair 51 is locked to the mandrel 52 by means of a lock 53 as indicated in Fig. 18 and the strand is then wound on the mandrel by rotating the winder 54 and moving'it at the same time longitudinally of the mandrel away from the lock 53. When the hair has been wound suitably, upon the mandrel the portionof the pad 55 which includes the impregnated strip of fabric'as hereinbefore described is dipped in a. water solution containing soap and borax and when saturated this portion of the pad is wrapped about the coiled hair. The wrapping is continued until the moistened portion of the pad is enclosed inthe paper-wrapped part thereof as indicated at Y56 and the mandrel carrying the wrapping is then introduced in a tube 57 of suitable material, the preferred material being bakelitef The tube caifbe inscriedthen in the heating element (not shown). When the heating period is completed the mandrel is withdrawn and the hair removed therefrom. It can be washed then and treated with any suitable oily lotionsto" effect a further improvement of its appearance.

They-invention as described includes several elements. each of which can be employed individually in connection with mandrels used heretofore in permanent-waving operations. The several elements cooperate, however, to facilitate and improve the hair- -waving operation and to ensure the production of improved results and more permanent-waving of the hair. i

Various changes may be made in the de tails of the apparatus and of the operation as described without departing from the invention or sacrificing any of the advantages thereof.

We claim 1. A permanent hair waving device comprising: a winder, and a mandrel therefore, having a threaded extension and cooperating means thereon adapted to grip a lock of hair, one of said means being loosely supported on the extension and the other being in threaded engagement therewith.

2. A permanent hair waving device comprising a zwinder, and a mandrel therefore, having a threaded extension and a shoulder at the base of the extension, and cooperating means adaptedto grip a lock of hair, one of the means being in threaded engagement with the extension whereby the cooperating means can be drawn toward the shoulder to hold said means in adjusted position.

3. A permanent "hair waving device comprising a winder, and a mandrel therefore, having a threaded extension and a shoulder at the base of the extension and cooperating Y means thereon adapted to grip a lock of hair, one of said means being loosely supported on the extension and the other being in threaded engagement therewith.

4. A permanent hair waving device comprising a winder, and a mandrel therefore, having a threaded extension-and a'shoulder at the base of the extension, and a pair of arms supported on the extension and cooperating to grip a lock of hair, one of the arms being loose on' the extension and the other being in threaded engagement therewith.

5. A permanent hair waving device comprising. a winder, and a mandrel therefore, having a threaded extension and a shoulder at the base of the extension, spaced members forming an arm supported on the extension,

- i one of said members being in threaded engagement therewith and an arm loosely supported between the extension and adapted to be clamped b'etween said members.

6. A permanent hair waving device comprising a winder, and a mandrel therefore, having a lock 'atone end' thereof and a winder loosely mountedfor rotating and longitudinal movement/ thereon, and comprising a slotted shell, a cam therein and resilient means formed integrally with the shell and adapted, to frictionally grip the mandrel.

7, A permanent hair waving device com-- prising a winder, and a mandrelitherefore, aving a lock at one endthereof and-a winder loosely mounted for rotating and longitudinal movement thereon, and c0mprising a slotted shell, a cam therein and vresilientwmeans formed integrally with the shell and adapted to frictionally grip the mandrel, the shell having also an integrally formed finger toguide the hair into the slot.

8. A permanent hair waving'device comprising a winder, and a mandrel'therefore,

having a lock at one end thereof and a winder loosely mounted for rotating and longitudinal movement thereon, and comprising a shell consisting of two parts, a

cam within and secured to the shell and 10. A permanent hair waving device comprising a mandrel and a winder therefore,

said winder comprising a one-piece shell having a slot and finger, a cam within the shell and resilient means integral with the shell to hold the winder in adjusted position on a mandrel.

11. A permanent hair waving device comprising a mandrel, means for Winding the hair around the mandrel, and a pad adapted ,to be wrapped around the hair wound on the mandrel comprising a folded strip of textile material and a strip of textile material enclosed therein, the latter strip being impregnated with a hair-treating substance.

12. A permanent hair waving device comprising a mandrel, means for winding the hair around the mandrel, and a pad adaptedto be wrapped around the hair wound on the mandrel comprising a folded strip of textile material, a strip of textile material enclosed therein, the latter strip being impregnated with a hair-treating substance, and a paper wrapper enclosing a portion of the folded strip.

13. A permanent hair waving device comprising a'mandrel, means for winding the hair around the mandrel, and a pad adapted to. be wrapped around the hair wound on the mandrel comprising a folded strip of textile material having a narrow extension at one side thereof and a strip of textile material enclosed within the extension, the latter strip being treating I substance. v

14. A permanent hair waving device comprising a mandrel, means for winding the.

textile 'material having a narrow extension impregnated with a hair* at one side thereof, a strip of. textile mate- I rial enclosed within the extension, the latter strip being impregnated with a hair-treating substance, and'a paper wrapper enclosing the widerpart of the folded strip.

. In testimony whereof we affix our signatures.

' SAMUEL BONAT.

/ ,I-IARRY BONAT. 

